Minetta Tavern: The Black Label Story

Oh Minetta Tavern, what woes you have caused. Our fearless leader had to try for weeks to get a reservation for a group our size (10ish) and after much scheming, which involved calling exactly one month prior to the date we hoped for, it all boiled down to just 5 of us. Another casualty of the reservation war was the heralded Burger Club schedule, through which we meet on the first Wednesday of every month to consume and judge every permutation of cow the city can provide. The regular meeting time, a staple of the (secret) society, had to be sacrificed. So the question I pose in this review:

Was it all worth it?

Let's begin with the pros.

The building itself, its decor and atmosphere is swank and very 'old New York'. Although I remember a conversation stating that Minetta Tavern was 'new,' i was pleased to discover that it actually opened in 1937 and was, well, a tavern. (Fun Fact: It was named after the Minetta Brook, which ran southwest from 23rd Street to the Hudson River, and clearly no longer exists.) It was frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Ezra Pound, Eugene O'Neill, E. E. Cummings, Dylan Thomas, and Joe Gould, which clearly imbues it with a certain legitimacy, a badassery, if you will.

Until I did this research, the whole 'speakeasy' vibe would have fallen into the 'con' category, because there is nothing I hate more than a bullshit claim of authenticity. And much as I enjoy the fruits of the mixologoy movement (literally, muddled fruits are everywhere), the neo-speakeasy trend is, in my opinion, wearing out its welcome. So in conclusion, I was very happily surprised to learn that much of the saloon-era interior is intact, from the oak bar to the framed pictures in the dining room. This also makes up for whatever complaint I may have had about the very wee and cramped dining area.

I must say the burger was good. It did not blow my mind (as some burgers have), but I must admit that it is possible that I ate is so quickly that I don't remember. Furthermore, splitting was a terrible idea (sorry J). Though splitting a big, meaty mess is usually enough for me, I was so hungry that I was left wanting and found myself scrounging the fries of others. However, at a whopping $26, splitting the Black Label Burger was the economical choice. Described on the menu as "selection of prime dry-aged beef cuts with caramelized onions and pommes frites," the most notable absence was, of course, the burger's rightful partner in crime: the cheese. When asked if we could add cheese, we were informed that it would take away from the flavor of the meat.

Now, I am pretty sure that cheese has never done anything but elevate the appeal of that which is it placed or melted upon, but I am also a waitress, and I listen to what waitresses have to say, because I know it comes from the chef. If he or she wants me to eat this meat naked, then that's exactly what I will do. After demolishing my half of what I can only conclude is meant to be the American Express Black Card of burgers, I take their point about the subtlety of flavor in the meat, but I am underwhelmed. The burger was simply good. The caramelized onions were yummy, I was a fan of the fries but, simply put, I've had better. And I am a firm believer in cheese. Sourced from the same creature on God's Green Earth, the burger and its cheese are clearly a match made in heaven.

There were no outstanding cons that I can recall, and the souffle was a nice choice for dessert, recommended by the waitress. Although she was wildly incorrect, we did not need two of the head-sized chocolate puffs, and I'm glad we only ordered one.

Ultimately, I would say the experience was worth it, despite the trials and tribulations of getting a reservation--but that it falls into the category of "I'm glad that I went, because I live in New York, it's one of those places everyone talks about and now I can say that I went."

Crossed off the list.

Will I go back? Probably not anytime soon.

--Contribution by Katie